Iniiwasan ko parati ang DelPan na malapit sa pier. Napaka-notorious ng lugar na yun, kung bagito ka nga malamang pagtitripan ka. Pero di ko aakalain na ang Del Pan ay nabibilang sa isa sa mga pinakamahahalaga nguni’t mukhang nakakalimutan nang maksaysayang distrito ng San Nicolas sa kalagitnaan Maynila.

Katabi nito ang Pasig River sa timog, ang bayan ng mga Tsinoy na Binondo sa silangan, ang pinakamalaking bargain place sa bansa, ang Divisoria sa hilaga at ang mga pinakanotoryus na lugar ng DelPan at Parola sa kanluran. Madaling puntahan kung galing kang Divisoria o Santa Cruz dahil may mga kalesa (na P50 kada byahe) o di kaya ang jeep (P8.50 ang pamasahe) na may karatulang San Nicolas, ang pwedeng sakyan papunta dito…

Isang tip, laging magmukhang simple at laging vigilant. Huwag ka nang magbalak pang lumampas ng Calle Barcelona papuntang Del Pan “kung gusto mo pang mabuhay” sabi ng mamang pulis sa detachment doon.

Sa mga kapanahunan ng ika-19 na siglo, maunlad ang lugar na ito dahil nga napapagitnaan sya ng Chinatown, ng pier at ang malaking pool of human resources. Bagsakan ng komersyo at pagawaan. Dati andito ang mga pagawaan ng pabango, general merchandise at marami pang iba. Dito rin ipinanganak ang mga bayani na magkakapatid na Luna.

Maraming nagsasabi na ang mga lumang bahay na bato na nakalatag sa San Nicolas noon ay nakaligtas sa pagbobomba ng mga Amerikano noong “Liberation” ng Maynila noong 1945. Sira ang Maynila, pero ang San Nicolas nakaligtas.

Sabi ng mga matatanda doon, halos ang buong komunidad ng San Nicolas ay napupuno ng mga bahay na bato na panlaban na sana ng Maynila sa Taal sa Batangas at Vigan ng Ilocos.

Nakapanghihinayang isipin na dahil na rin sa kapabayaan, nakalimutan na ang dating alindog ng old world charm ng Maynila. Unti unting nasira ang mga lumang bahay, ang iba giniba, ang iba nasunog. Iilan na lang ang natitira.

Mga bahay na bato na meron pa ring marka ng nakaraan. Marami sa mga ito ay pinarerenta, ang iba condemned, ang iba ay bodega. Pero kahit papaano, may iilan sa kanila ang nag-preserve o pinangalagaan ang mga lumang bahay na ito dahil na rin napamahal na sila mismo sa lugar.

Marahil notoryus na sa generation ngayon pero ang mga tile na street signs na mismo makapagsasabi na ang lugar na ito ay isang pamana na dapat pangalagaan. Isang natatanging karakter ng Maynila na parang nanganganib nang mawala. Ang San Nicolas na marahil ang isa sa pinakamagandang halimbawa ng urban decay at neglect of patrimony. Kung hindi aaksyunan, maaaring mawala ang mga unique na streetscape na ito.

Pasig River has so much importance in the history of Manila. It was the EDSA during the pre-colonial era, a main water thoroughfare used by our ancestors for trade and travel. It has also become an advantage as a natural harbour for ships. The Spaniards came and constructed the walled city and several pueblos along the river. But just after World War II, as roads plough the streets, the river’s importance declined and was notorious to be “the largest poso negro in Metro Manila.”

Now the efforts have paved the way for its improvement, one of them is the revival of the Pasig River ferry system, which is part of the ways that the government can alleviate transportation woes in the metro. Equiped with air-conditioned catamarans and modern terminals, ferries ply from Pasig City to Intramuros in Manila in an hour less the traffic…

From Guadalupe, Makati to Intramuros, Manila, it will cost you PhP45 for regular fare, P20 for students. You don’t need to worry about traffic, the river’s stench. Instead, just sit back and relax and enjoy the cruise and the river scenery. You may even go out at the bow to breathe fresh air (and most of the time I took the ferry, the obnoxious stench is not available). Go out and take pictures of the surroundings but as you approach Pureza and Pandacan, security people would request you to get inside. Unfortunatelty, hanggang beinte pesos na lang ang Malacañang as the crew would not allow the people taking pictures of the Palace due to security reasons.

Pasig River may have been the reflection of the Philippine urban society. The soaring skyscrapers of Makati and Ortigas are contrasted by the slums beside the river. The oil depots that bring life to infrastructure to the city and a Palace that is the seat of power of the Republic. Unseen Manila can be seen here, if you want to reminisce the old days when Bapor Tabo of El Fili once cruised the waters of this historic river. The river that brought life to Manila.

The oldest among the rail transits in the metro, it was constructed in early 1980′s by the Marcos Administration to drastically reduce the travel time from Paranaque City to Caloocan City, passing through the heart of downtown Manila. The said line runs from Baclaran to Monumento. Light Railway Transit was inspired by the tramvias of pre-war Manila (similar to cable cars of San Francisco) but on an elevated railway and with specific stations. It runs 15 kilometers with 18 stations north to south, traversing the roads of Taft Avenue, Avenida Rizal and Arroceros Street. So, here we start our joyride from south to north and get to know the destinations.

The station guides at the next page

• Baclaran Station – It is the southern terminal of LRT-1. Famous for being a crowd and traffic drawer pilgrimage site every Wednesday which is at the Redemptorist Church. The area is also known as a giant marketplace of everything affordable, from apparel to cellphones to television. It is Divisioria’s competitor in the south.
• EDSA (Pasay Rotunda) Station – It is simply the big hub of passengers who are either going to QC, Pasig or Makati or Manila and Caloocan. It is where you disembark if you want to travel the Metro by EDSA either by bus (which will take you, heaven knows when hours before you reach the area) or by MRT, the blue line. The Taft Avenue Station of MRT is just a walking distance away. Also, the place is a large transit area for provincial buses mostly bound south of Manila.
• Libertad Station – This is where you disembark if you want to go to Pasay City’s market or watch a basketball game at the Cuneta Astrodome.
• Buendia Station – The station in which you can either infiltrate the Central Business District of Makati or the expanse of the World Trade Centre or even knock your doors at the Senate of the Philippines.
• Vito Cruz Station – Animo La Salle! The station where the De La Salle schools are within its reaches. Also, this is the most convenient disembarking location for those bound for CCP, Aliw Theatre and the Rizal Stadium. And oh, Harisson Plaza Shopping Centre.
• Quirino Avenue Station – Sightseeing at Manila Zoo or having a courtesy call with Malacanang? Or bound to Santa Mesa? It’s the place to drop yourself off to these destinations.
• Pedro Gil Station – Sick and needs check-up, PGH (Philippine General Hospital) is near, and same with the first UP (University of the Philippines) campus. You may also want to shop or go bar hopping at nearby Malate or have your judicial cases be solved at the Supreme Court.
• United Nations Avenue – The gateway to the most famous landmark in Manila, Luneta or Rizal Park. Also for those who wanted to have the American Dream, the US Embassy is just at the western end of UN Avenue. NBI clearances and wanting for investigation? NBI is here. And to our fellow mariners seeking for a job, this is where TM Kalaw is.
• Central Terminal – At the heart of the Capital is the Central Terminal or known as Lawton. SM City Manila is nearby and so is the the old walled city of Intramuros, a standing reminder of Manila living with Spain for three centuries. Fort Santiago and the UNESCO World Heritage Site San Agustin Church is here and so are the schools of Mapua, PLM, Lyceum and Letran and the seat of the Archdiocese of Manila.
• Carriedo Station – This is the gateway to the old soul commercial hub of Manila. The famed Avenida Rizal and the old commercial strip of Escolta, the Church of Santa Cruz and of course Chinatown Binondo where those Chinese delicacies, restaurants and that imposing church is located. Pilgrims of the Black Nazarene can disembark here as Quiapo Church is just several blocks away. This is also another bargain hunter’s paradise.
• Doroteo Jose Station – Going to Divisoria, the famed “THE BARGAIN PLACE” of Manila? Or going to Sampaloc and head yourself to the University Belt or have a rally staged at Mendiola? Heading for Cubao QC and Marikina, it is the transit station for the Purple Line or LRT-2.
• Bambang Station – Going north Luzon? Some terminals are located here or searching for bargain goods.
• Blumentritt Station – The street is named after one of Rizal’s supporters. This is the transit station for those who want to ride the old PNR (Philippine National Railways) for Alabang or its main station at Tutuban.
• Tayuman Station – Once the gateway to the world of jockeys and horse racing of San Lazaro, it is now the station for those who want to go to Tondo or Sampaloc or shop at SM City.
• Abad Santos Station – Visiting some departed loved ones at the Chinese Cemetery or bound again for Divisioria, it is here where you disembark.
• R.Papa Station – One of the gateways to Manila’s largest cemeteries, the North Cemetery and Chinese Cemetery. Also within the vicinity is the lechon district of La Loma in Quezon City.
• 5^th Avenue Station – Station for the residents and people bound to the residential areas of Grace Park and also Dagat-Dagatan of CAMANAVA (Caloocan, Malabon, Navotas & Valenzuela).
• Monumento Station – The last station up north. So called because of the monument done by the National Artist Guillermo Tolentino dedicated to Andres Bonifacio, a Philippine revolucionario and a hero. This is where you transit for Navotas’ fish port, the zoo and antique places of Malabon, the industrial Valenzuela and all the way to Bulacan and beyond. It is also where Yellow Line meets EDSA once more, bound for Balintawak Interchange and Munoz market, the “bagsakan” of Benguet vegetables.